New York Fashion Week came in like a lion with Raf Simonsís Calvin Klein debut and went out like a lamb after eight days of understated collections heavy on wardrobe essentials, outerwear, and corporate power suits. Lest that paint a boring picture of New Yorkís flagship fashion event, there were some big moments that the fashion crowd buzzed about as they moved on to London. Weíre reflecting on those here while we wait for LFW pictures to come streaming in.
1. Raf Simonsís Calvin Klein Debut Starts NYFW on a High Note
Raf Simonsís first fashion show for Calvin Klein might just be the most anticipated fashion-world event since the Battle of Versailles. That surely put a lot of pressure on the Belgian import and his close-knit team of creative partners including CK creative director Pieter Mulier and artist Sterling Ruby. They handled it well, presenting a collection at CK HQ of artsy-yet-wearable pieces that ranged from the strangeósee that vinyl-covered yellow faux-fur coatóto the practicalóhello, check blazers and roomy jeansóunder a Ruby installation comprised of New York City detritus hanging from the ceiling. If the show itself put people in a good mood, the after-party, which culminated with Simons giving a brief thank-you speech at 3:00 a.m., only bettered it.
2. Political Statements Lurked Around Every Corner
To recap every instance of politicking on the NYFW runways this season could take days. Instead, letís talk about the memorable examples. In the direct category were Public Schoolís ìMake America New Yorkî caps, Prabal Gurungís political tees, and the founders of the Womenís March speaking (and dancing) at Mara Hoffman. LRS printed ìNo Ban, No Wallî on the bum of a pair of knickers. The CFDA made Planned Parenthood pins and then pledged to donate $5 for every photo hash tagged with #istandwithpp. And in his signature fearless fashion Jeremy Scott sent out a collection inspired by idol worship that warned of the dangers of blind faith while simultaneously serving up tees that read Sex is Cute. In the hurricane of sloganeering this season, thatís one tee weíd like to wear for years to come.
3. Before NYFW, Fashion Went West
If there was any doubt that Los Angeles is fast becoming the go-to spot for the fashion crowd, Tommy Hilfiger and Rachel Comeyís West Coast shows should clear it up. Held in the days leading up to NYFW, just as Hedi Slimaneís Saint Laurent blowout was one year ago, these celebrity-filled extravaganzas served to reinforce the City of Angelsís status as a major contender on the international sceneóand to increase the number of days in fashion month.
4. Celebrity Spotting Reached New Heights in the Front Row
Whoever said NYFW was lacking in star wattage might want to check the A-list front rows this season for clarification. The week started off with Julianne Moore, Gwyneth Paltrow, Millie Bobby Brown, a trio of Moonlight actors, and A$AP Rocky at Calvin Klein, and continued with Huma Abedin at Prabal Gurung and Chelsea Clinton at Tanya Taylor. Philipp Pleinís show made FROW headlines for having both Madonna and Tiffany Trump in the same room.
5. Diversity of Ethnicity, Age, and Size Finally Arrived on the Catwalk
After much hand-wringing, it seems New York designers are finally catching on to the concept of diversity. Brands from Chromat to Coach 1941 to Marc Jacobs sent out models of all ethnicities, genders, and backgrounds. At The Row, the Olsens used legendary models of all ages, a statement echoed later in the week at Michael Kors. Letís see if this acceptance continues into the European shows.
6. You Will Never Escape Supreme
Despite more than 200 runway shows and presentations this week, the brand everyone was talking about was Supreme. Prices leaked for its Louis Vuitton collabóstart saving!óand the label launched its Spring 2017 collection online, Barack Obama prints and a Sade tee, included. Thereís also the essentially confirmed rumor that a Lacoste collab is in the works and a soon-to-be-released Supreme metro card that hype beasts cannot wait to start swiping. How long until the streetwear brand starts staging its own fashion shows?
7. Bjarne Melgaard Started the Great NYFW Giveaway
Somewhere between all the parties, shows, and endless hours on the subway was artist Bjarne Melgaardís epic giveaway. The artist dumped more than $500,000 worth of his own clothing, including Comme des GarÁons and Helmut Lang pieces, allowing guests 10 minutes to scoop up as much merch as they could get their hands on for free. Look for it in our London street style slideshow.
8. It Smelled Like Team Spirit at NYFW
Collectives are officially a thing. New York upstart Vaquera, once the solo project of Patric DiCaprio, is now a four-person team, as is the on-the-rise anonymous brand Society 8. Chromatís Becca McCharen-Tran brought out her whole design team for a group bow, and Raf Simons took a lap with CK creative director Pieter Mulier.
9. Hillary Made an End-of-Week Appearance
While daughter Chelsea attended a show, Hillary Clinton appeared at the end of New York Fashion Week to help reveal the USPSís new Oscar de la Renta stamps. She made a fashionable statement of her own, wearing a bright pink blazer and gold necklace, though the most memorable part of her appearance might be when she encouraged listeners to heed the Constitution, calling it, ìsomething we should all read and reread in todayís times.î Amen, Madame Secretary.
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